This Kat Von D color cosmetics palette package from HCT really tells a story.

More Than a Pretty Package

Packaging for color cosmetics must transcend shelf appeal, offering consumers artistic and application benefits.

Written by Steve Katz, Associate Editor

It’s no secret that consumer behavior is directly impacted by the economy. And while the economy is indeed recovering, the effect on cosmetic consumers’ spending has not been immediate. However, it is happening. But what’s also happening, it seems, is that the cosmetics consumer has become increasingly practical, and more discerning.

According to a recent study by market research firm Mintel, just 27% of shoppers surveyed said they made replacement purchases in color cosmetics, but avoided “splurge” products in 2010, down from 33% in 2009. In addition, 39% of those surveyed said they actively looked for sales and tried to only buy color cosmetics products on sale during 2010 versus 45% in 2009.

“Women are really starting to do their research when it comes to making cosmetic and skin care purchases,” says Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst, Mintel. “The days when favorite beauty products were simply automatic replacement purchases are gone. Nearly a quarter of respondents claim to shop around more to compare prices, while 16% say they use the Internet more to research prices and products.”

Because of this, it’s fair to say that packaging’s role in the cosmetics market is as critical as ever, as packaging components and attributes that add value to a product can make or break whether a potential cosmetic purchase is made. And suppliers in this market segment are doing their part, manufacturing products for improved application, shelf appeal, and an overall positive consumer experience.

Performance Art

The packaging’s role as an applicator of color cosmetics is an area that sets this market segment apart. Here, packaging’s purpose is twofold: It generates shelf appeal, while also playing a major role in the end user’s experience.

For an enhanced application experience, Topline incorporates this package with a specially designed sponge.

Damien Dossin, VP of sales, Topline, says when it comes to color cosmetics, packaging that improves product performance, makes application easier, or even teaches the user how to apply the product, has become a key trend. “Lipgloss applicators that improve the gloss effect, eye shadow applicators that help the user create the perfect ‘smoky eye,’ foundation applicators that save time and give a soft-focus, perfectly blended finish by incorporating a specially designed sponge on the packaging, are examples of this,” Dossin explains. “Smart packaging or interactive packaging to improve application, such as vibrating or pulsating effects, are all part of the notable trends we see.”

The challenges, Dossin says, are designing products that enhance the application experience, are easy to use, and have superior performance—all while remaining affordable. “Topline has a unique way of approaching innovation for the beauty industry—we work to ensure that packaging complements the formulation and optimizes the application experience, creating new ideas for applicator styles and materials that could be used for a particular cosmetics function,” he says.

To illustrate his point, Dossin describes a couple of Topline’s recent projects: “The packaging for Almay Smart Shade Foundation uses a special filling technique that allows a consumer to instantly see that the product contains both skin care and color benefits—‘proof of the performance.’ The Maybelline Instant Age Rewind Eraser Treatment Makeup features an exclusive, patented micro-corrector applicator which micro-fills and smoothes imperfections on skin’s surface to create the appearance of younger looking skin,” he says.

Mike Warford, national sales manager, ABA Packaging Corp., notes that within the mascara and lipgloss markets, performance and packaging are especially linked. “Unlike other cosmetic packaging items, an important part of the efficacy of any mascara and lipgloss product is the performance of the packaging. A mascara or lipgloss package not only has to be able to properly contain the product, it must also perform as an application tool making it an important part of the overall effectiveness of the product. The design of a mascara brush, the consistency of its key attributes in production, and its performance with an engineered wiper system, all play a key role in product efficacy.”

Any inconsistencies in the manufacturing of the mascara brush, wiper, or mating components can cause the very best product to under-perform, Warford says, adding that the same applies to lipgloss packages. “Here, the design and consistency of the flocked or unflocked applicators, combined with a dedicated wiper system, play a huge role in the performance of the product. We are seeing much more emphasis during the product development stages in the area of brush and applicator design, efficacy, performance, and consistency. We are also seeing greater appreciation for the role that the brushes and applicators play in the overall success of a product.”

ABA markets the German-made OEKAbeauty line of applicators, and according to Warford, it “has some of their best engineering and manufacturing talent focused in this area. Many of their stock mascara brushes are designed and recommended for a specific purpose (volumizing, lengthening, curling) and they utilize internal panel testing in the development of these items to analyze the performance of both stock and custom color cosmetic packaging products,” he says.

Heavyweight, Durable and Smart

Jeffrey Hayet, executive vice president-global sales for World Wide Packaging (WWP), notes that his customers always ask, “What can you do differently that no one else has done before?” He says, “Our customers know that the critical factor in packaging is the ability to increase shelf-appeal through value-added packaging.”

Arrowpak anticipates continued nail polish packaging innovation.

According to Hayet, color is not what drives cosmetics packaging anymore. There is so much more to it,” he says. “We are proud to say that we now have the ability to produce a compact that looks and feels weighted, without having a formal, metal weight embedded as other compacts do. This new compact still looks high-end and elegant, but its structure offers a cost-savings to our customers. Plus, there is a magnetic element to the packaging, giving it a unique closure, not a standard locking clasp or hinge. In developing this product, we’ve created a market that never existed before.”

Topline’s Dossin also emphasizes hinge design as a trending innovation. He says, “Instead of a traditional pinned hinge in some situations, a swivel hinge—viewed as ‘fresh’ last year—still has continued interest because of its 3D attributes and benefits. 3D-visual based products continue to push traditional headspace design requirements. Brands are focusing on novel applicator heads, and designers are looking for synergy—smart packaging to go with smart products.”

Alisa Williams, platform manager, cosmetic & personal care packaging, Eastman Chemical Company, points out that an immediate challenge with cosmetic packaging is scratch resistance. “Many packages are iconic to the brand—therefore brand owners demand a package that is a specific color, has a high gloss, and is fingerprint- and scratch-free,” she says.

The attributes Williams mentions are part of the allure of the purchase, and if they do not hold up post-purchase, then brand identity is at stake. “A UV coating can be added after molding to help maintain the original beauty of the packaging (color, brand name or symbol). Eastman Eastar CN and Eastman Eastar AN are specifically designed for lipgloss, liquid eye shadow, and eyeliner containers because of their shelf appeal, clarity and chemical resistance, including oils,” Williams says.

Eastman’s Glass Polymer family of cosmetic materials offers innovative design and application possibilities, says Williams, adding that they offer compelling alternatives to traditional polymers, and can be used where glass falls short. As a packaging material, it can be extrusion or injection blow molded into a variety of shapes, and its toughness can support thin or thick walls.

Multifunctional Products

Discerning cosmetics consumers are thinking more before buying, and before they spend, they want to know what they’re getting. And if they perceive that the color cosmetics purchase is encompassing more than one function, it could be a deal maker. Suppliers have taken this thinking into account, creating products that are both multifunctional as well as convenient.

Eastman’s Glass Polymer offers clarity, chemical and impact resistance, and design flexibility.

Rebecca Goswell, global creative director, HCT Packaging, says the company is experiencing high demand for products that either combine several functions in one, or products that cleverly dispense a set dose of product while incorporating easy-to-use application systems. “Because of the versatile and modern, high-tech cosmetic formulas, we’re also seeing a breakdown and merging of categories in color—more so than in skin care.”

In the near future, Goswell says, products will be developed for use in multiple scenarios, with their function becoming more abstract, allowing users the freedom to use them almost like an artist’s paint palette. “This will start a trend of experimental play with color,” she says. “Brands will increasingly adopt a modernist, minimal approach, and the more adventurous will break free from convention, categorizing product purely by color and texture, rather than targeting specific areas of the face. We are seeing a breakdown of rules, not only with makeup, but across art, technology, jewelry—with the more adventurous brands creating almost three-dimensional embellishment rather than purely pigmented traditional makeup products.”

Goswell points out that many cosmetic brands are answering sustainability and recycling demands by introducing refillables and special edition collectables using aluminum, zamac and wood, for a more emotive, desirable product. “The clever ergonomic and portable product with a story to engage consumers will still be a popular choice for brands that need a limited edition launch to drive sales at key times during the year,” she says. “These products can sit happily alongside ranges and be updated seasonally by use of clever embellishment and on-trend color means. We see the nail market as a massive potential growth area over the next 12-18 months. The explosion of this sector after many years of stagnant sales has served to illustrate the lack of any real, new innovation, and has set our HCT designers into a frenzy of activity,” Goswell says, adding that HCT has design-registered over 18 concepts in the past four months.

Jim Slowey, VP marketing and sales, Arrowpak, has also picked up on the nail polish trend. He says, “The hot item right now is anything to do with nail polish. Historically the bottom of the category, there is a trend toward new innovation in polish, started by gel polish, the long lasting manicure, and crackle polish. We could be in for a couple years of new items—and new innovation.”

Green, Gradients and Graphics

Regardless of tactic used—multiple functions, innovative applicators, green attributes, or gleaming shelf-appeal—products have to stand out among the competition.

Nick Gardner, executive VP HCT CA, emphasizes being green—both kinds of green—as a means of differentiation. “Over the last few years, we have seen color cosmetics trends driven by retail consumers who expect more value for their money. A simple eye shadow palette isn’t good enough these days. The palette needs to be larger and more compelling, featuring items such as primers, eyeliner and professional brushes to make it more appealing. Our customers are also choosing more environmentally conscious materials such as card, which not only is more economical, but still allows the freedom to be experimental with graphics,” Gardner says.

ABA’s Warford stresses that color and substrate choice can go a long way in attracting consumers. “We are seeing an increased demand for specialized decorations and coatings on the OEKAbeauty mascara, lipgloss and lipstick packaging products, and the range is producing huge volumes of mascara, lipgloss, and lipstick packages with colored lacquer and metallized finish coatings. Gradient color coatings in repeatable patterns are now becoming more popular as well, and they have installed the required equipment and systems to provide these on all of their products. And the gradient coatings are especially attractive over metallized substrates,” he says.

Hayet of WWP points to innovative printing technology as a significant advancement. “We have the ability to execute digital printing on flat, plastic surfaces, such as a compact. We can print a photo image on the compact, rather than on a label, and that is not something other cosmetics packaging companies can deliver,” he says.

Anthony De Marco, executive VP HCT NY, does a good job summing up the wants and needs of today’s color cosmetics packaging buyer. “Clients are looking for unique packages that set them apart from the rest.Essentially, the trend is to find something new and innovative. Clients are not simply looking for pretty packaging. Packaging today needs to be functional, attractive and also deliver a message. Packages of interest are those that can deliver unique dispensing systems, packages that are green, packages that are airtight, but not too mechanical, and packaging that is fun.”